Monday, January 14, 2019

What is the GWC for - a ground heat exchanger?



GWC, or ground heat exchanger, is an installation that allows heating or cooling of the ventilation air, thanks to energy stored in the ground - available for free.

GWC, or ground heat exchanger, is an installation that allows heating or cooling of ventilation air due to energy stored in the ground - available for free.

The ground temperature at a depth of 1.5 m is in Poland around 14oC in August and around 5oC in February. At a slightly greater depth it oscillates around 8 ° C. If the ventilation air contacts the ground, it heats up in the winter and cools it in the summer - it is possible thanks to the ground heat exchanger (GWC)

Rod will use ground heat exchangers

Ground heat exchangers are diaphragm - the air then flows buried under the surface of the earth - pipes or diaphragms, in which air flows through properly prepared soil layers (gravel), with direct contact with them.

Benefits of using GWC

In our climate you can count on the fact that thanks to the use of a ground heat exchanger, the air temperature will increase (in winter) or fall (in summer) by a few or even several degrees Celsius. The greater the temperature difference between air and ground, the more intensive the heat exchange, therefore the greatest benefits of GWC are related to the strong frost (it is possible to heat the air from -20 ° C to 0 ° C) and in the heat (cooling from 30oC to 20oC).

A ground heat exchanger is not always useful

In transitional periods, when the outside temperature is from a few to several degrees Celsius, using a ground heat exchanger makes no sense - due to the small difference in air temperature and ground heat transfer does not take place. It may also occur that the effect is counterproductive: air with a temperature of, for example, 12oC - too cold to ensure thermal comfort in the home - is additionally cooled by soil at a temperature of, for example, 8 oC. Therefore, installations with GWC are made in such a way that fresh air can be obtained without a ground heat exchanger.

What is the construction manager required for?



The construction manager is a person who represents the investor on the construction site and makes sure that the house is built in accordance with the construction and design. The duties of the construction manager are determined by the Construction Law.

Construction law imposes on the investor the obligation to establish a construction manager. He takes over the entirety of the investment and acts on our behalf and on our behalf based on the power of attorney. The manager may control the inspector employed by us - but we have no obligation to employ him.

Responsibilities of the construction manager

The basic duties of the manager include (Article 22 of the Act - Construction Law):

· Keeping a construction log (in which all types of works carried out at the construction site are entered),

· Placing in a visible place the information board concerning the construction (it must include, among others, the type of construction works, address of the works, address and telephone number of the local building supervision authority, name and surname, address and telephone number of the investor),

· Securing the construction site against unauthorized persons (including fencing it with a minimum height of 1.5 m ),

· Withdrawal from the investor with a written confirmation of the construction site along with all buildings and facilities in the area,

· Maintenance of construction documentation for all loads at every stage of construction and at the final stage,

· Providing geodetic design of the project,

· Implementation of recommendations recorded in the construction log by higher bodies (eg construction supervision, supervision inspectorate),

· Notification in the westora in case of cessation of construction works by higher bodies,

· Showing the investor at the appropriate stage of the construction elements, which after its completion will not be visible (eg foundations),

· Checking all installations, technical devices and chimney flues before handing over the building for pickup,

· A written confirmation at the reception that the construction took place as planned and in compliance with all regulations,

· Preparation of as-built documentation.

Construction manager's rights

The construction manager has the right to:

· Suspending construction in the event of creating a hazard as a result of construction continuation (eg violation of a neighboring building),

· Asking the investor for changes in the project due to important reasons, eg safety or improvement of the construction process.

· Commenting on the construction log on the recommendations made, eg a surveyor or a supervision inspector.

Roof insulation



Most heat escapes through the roof, so it is necessary to attach a particularly large weight to its insulation. The easiest way is, of course, to insulate the roof while building a house. However, it is possible later.

Most heat escapes through the roof, so it is necessary to attach a particularly large weight to its insulation. The easiest way is, of course, to insulate the roof while building a house. However, it is possible later.

Layers of insulated roof: 1 - roofing, 2 - patches, 3 - windproofing, 4 - rafters, 5 - thermal insulation, 6 - vapor barrier, 7 - wall-paper.

Isolation layers

Isolating the roof is necessary. If the space under it is unusable - just enough to protect it from moisture.

However, if it is to be used as a residential one, it must be not only dry, but also warm. The insulated roof is a multilayer structure, which consists - looking from the cover - windproof insulation (and at the same time vapor permeable), thermal insulation and vapor barrier insulation. Thermal insulation is the middle layer, because it must be protected from outside water and steam from the inside of the building. Suitable materials are used for this.

In the case of low-vapor-permeable film, two ventilation slots are necessary. 1 - roofing, 2 - patches, 3 - ventilation slits, 4 - string, 5 - wind insulation film, 6 - thermal insulation.

Wind insulation

Roofing foils (pre-covering foils, FWK) protect against infiltration of rainwater and allow evaporation of moisture from thermal insulation to the outside. Depending on the ability of water vapor transmission, two types of film are distinguished. This factor also affects the scope of the products listed below. Low vapor permeable films are made of a polyethylene film or a polypropylene membrane. Most often they are reinforced with a net of polyethylene, HDPE polypropylene or fiberglass. Films with an anti-condensation layer that absorb excess moisture from the air are also available. When laying the foil, it must be on the inside of the house. When using a low-vapor-permeable film, it is necessary to leave a ventilation gap between the roofing and the foil, and between the foil and the insulation. Otherwise the water vapor escaping from inside the house would remain in thermal insulation, causing it to become damp.

In the case of a highly vapor-permeable film, a ventilation gap under the roof covering is sufficient : 1 - roof covering, 2 - patches, 3 - gap, 4 - FWK foil, 5 - thermal insulation.

If building elements protrude above the roof surface, the foil should be placed in such a way as to prevent rain and snow from entering. The low-vapor-permeable membrane can be installed without fear if the roof is not insulated and the attic is unused.Highly vapor-permeable foils (also known as roofing membranes) are produced as single-layer, made of HDPE polyethylene and as double-layer, made of polyethylene and polyester. They should be placed with a colored page or with inscriptions outside. The membranes are reinforced with a polypropylene mesh, which makes them resistant to tearing and other mechanical damage. The higher the water vapor permeability, the better. This feature allows you to put them directly on thermal insulation, without a ventilation gap. Highly vapor-permeable foils are used instead of stiff plating and roofing paper, if the attic of the house is insulated, and the roofing will be ceramic tiles, cement tiles or roof tiles laid on patches and counter-battens. Some foils may substitute for roofing paper, laid on a rigid planking or wood-based boards.

Thermal isolation

For insulation of pitched roofs, mainly mineral wool mats or boards with high elasticity and low volumetric weight (12-15 kg / m3) are used. Glass wool is particularly preferred as being lighter than rock. It is recommended to use a minimum thickness of25 cm . It acquires a special meaning at the moment when the so-called energy passports of buildings. An object that does not comply with the regulations is not energy-saving. Styrofoam panels can also be used to insulate pitched roofs. It is worth choosing those whose edges are contoured. When laying, they overlap, forming a tight connection. Many manufacturers offer styrofoam in varieties intended for roof insulation.

Vapor barrier

Vapor-tight foils protect thermal insulation against penetration of water vapor during operation of the house. They are produced as single- or multi-layer. A special feature is foil reinforced fibers, because they absorb moisture, and then evaporate it at a higher temperature of air. Shoulder foils should be used, which have a mesh of strong polypropylene between the plastic layers.They are resistant to tearing and other mechanical damage. On the surface of the foil there are markings informing which side should be top.

Cy rkulacja air under the roof covering 1 - vent Ridge, 2 - the ventilation opening in the gable wall, 3 - the flow of air through the ventilation gap over the thermal insulation 4 - an inlet in the roof eaves.

Ventilation of the roof slope

Ventilation speeds up moisture removal from insulation and protects the bottom surface of roofing against moisture. Leave ventilation space beneath poorly permeable layers, such as full planks or roofing paper. It is not necessary to make a gap when using FWK film with very high vapor permeability. The free air flow in the space under the roofing is ensured by ventilation slits under the eaves and in the ridge, or openings in the gable walls. Both gaps and openings should be covered with a mesh to prevent insects and rodents from getting under the roof cover. Many manufacturers of roofing materials offer accessories for their systems, including special plastic combs that shield the ventilation gap in the roof ridge.

How to warm

During roof insulation, it is not necessary to remove the cover. The work is carried out from the attic side.

Fixing of wind insulation: 1 - edges of foil belts curled on the rafter, 2 - metal staples.

Stages of implementation

Wind insulation

The first layer, performed during thermal insulation, is the pre-covering foil. Currently, low-vapor permeable foils are being used less and less often, because a ventilation gap between the foil and the thermal insulation layer must be made. Otherwise, there is a risk of insufficient evaporation of moisture from the insulation and, consequently, its destruction. In the case of membranes, i.e. high-vapor-permeable foils, this gap is unnecessary. However, it is always necessary to leave a gap between the windproofing and the roofing. This enables proper ventilation of the roof slope. In order to attach the foil, wooden strips with a thickness of approx. 2 cm should be nailed between rafters . It is only to them that the wind insulation is fixed, secured with a special stapler.The edges of the foil must be wrapped on the sides of the rafters. When fixing the windproof foil, special attention should be paid to its arrangement. The subtitles page must be on top. This is why it is so important because the foil has microscopic funnel-shaped openings. Thanks to this, they allow the removal of steam, but at the same time do not allow water to enter the thermal insulation layer. It is a frequent mistake made by the contractors not to care about the correct positioning of the film.

Fixing of thermal insulation: 1 - wind insulation, 2 - string, 3 - mineral wool, 4 - system hangers, 5 - system profiles.

Fixing of thermal insulation: 1 - wind insulation, 2 - string, 3 - mineral wool, 4 - system hangers, 5 - system profiles.

Thermal isolation

If mineral wool mats are used for insulation of the roof surface, unpack them beforehand and tap to allow the material to expand. Warming will be most effective if the insulation is placed in two layers: the first one between the rafters and the other under them. Wool straps in the first layer must be cut on both sides about 2 cm wider than the distance between the rafters.Then press them between the rafters. To protect the material against falling out, it should be supported from the bottom with a string fastened to the sides of the rafters. The next step is to fasten the metal system frame. First screwed to the rafters, so-called hangers, and then put on a second layer of thermal insulation. Also in this case, the wool must be cut so that it fits between the profiles. After laying the wool, C profiles are screwed to hangers; they must be arranged perpendicular to the rafters. These profiles support thermal insulation and at the same time constitute a grate for fastening gypsum boards, which are usually finished with attic.

Fixing of vapor barrier and finishing: 1 - windproofing, 2 - mineral wool, 3 - self-adhesive tape, 4 - plasterboard, 5 - screws fixing boards to profiles, 6 - vapor barrier, 7 - system profiles.

Installation of a vapor barrier

The foil is laid with stripes, parallel to the floor, starting from the highest attic space. The foil should be laid evenly, without corrugation. It should be slightly stretched, but only enough to level the surface without permanently deforming the material. The foil is attached to the frame with double-sided self-adhesive tape. It is necessary to ensure that the vapor barrier is sealed. Its individual belts are connected to bets about 10 cm . Joints should fall on the frame slats. The foil joints must necessarily be sealed with self-adhesive tape, as well as staple driving areas - in the case of windproofing.

Finishing plasterboard: 1 - the place where the plates meet, 2 - reinforcing tape, 3 - putty.

Finish. The most popular is the attic finish with plasterboard panels. They are screwed to a frame supporting the second layer of insulation. By mounting the panels to the frame, the possibility of cracks caused by the work of the truss is minimized. Gypsum plasterboards should be laid in two layers. This provides much better fire protection of the truss than the standard single boards.The boards of the first layer are fastened vertically, while the other is horizontally, with the longer side perpendicular to the floor.The bonding points of the panels must not fall out in both layers in the same place (they are laid on the pass). The boards are screwed with screws intended for this material. After attaching them, the joints should be stitched. It is good to strengthen the joints with reinforcing tape. Then, cracks will not appear on the finished surface. Discs prepared in this way are usually painted, but you can also glue wallpaper on them.

What you need to know

The most advantageous is the installation of thermal insulation in two layers. Only then is it possible to eliminate thermal bridges.It is also important that the insulation is sealed. If the insulation is to be directly in contact with the wind insulation, do not press it too much, as this may cause it to bulge and contact the roofing. This will disable the ventilation process, and in the case of, for example, sheet metal coating, it may damage the foil due to overheating. It is necessary to maintain at least a 2.5-centimeter ventilation gap between the wool and the roofing. The actual size depends on from the rafter length: the longer the rafter, the larger the gap.

In order to ensure proper ventilation of the space above the membrane, inlet and outlet openings should be made. The inlets should be in the eaves and have a combined cross-section of min. 2% of the roof area. You can make a gap instead of a hole. It must then be 5-

Insulation of buildings



In the article, we describe the basic types of external building insulation

Appropriate insulation of the building means comfort of use and a large saving of money. Energy efficiency is at this moment a very important feature of the building.

Energy consumption - this is the amount of energy consumed for the operation of the building during the year.

Heat demand index E - value expressed in kWh / m2 per year, determines the value of seasonal energy demand needed to heat1 m2 of the house area.

Buildings in Poland have a coefficient of E, sometimes far from the standards recommended by the Building Research Institute in Warsaw. According to the ITB, it should be between 91 and 125 kWh / m2 per year. Buildings from the 70s have this ratio above 220 kWh / m2 per year, buildings from the 90s are already a little better - 120 by 180 kWh / m2 per year. For example, in Germany the heat demand index E is 70 kWh / m2 per year.

Heat losses are caused in about 70% by improper insulation or non-insulated walls, roofs, floors. Walls play a significant role here.

The methods used for insulation of building walls are:

The wet light method - consists in sticking to the wall insulating layer made of foamed polystyrene or insulation wool, applying a reinforcing mesh embedded in a suitable adhesive, and then plastifying (this method does not apply to wooden walls).

Dry light method - between the elements of the grate fixed to the wall, the insulating material is placed, it is covered with wind insulation, and it is mounted with vinyl siding or wooden siding.

The most popular method is light wet.

Most producers of insulation systems offer full or faded plasters that give great texture effects. The outer plaster of the insulation layer can be found in several color versions. There is also the possibility of an individual, repeatable color thanks to computer systems for precise dosing of coloring pigments.

The thermal insulation layer can be made of expanded polystyrene or wool. It is important to choose the thickness of this layer.It depends on the heat transfer coefficient U for a given type of wall. According to the current thermal standard, it can be a maximum of 0.30 W / m2K. In the case of walls in old houses, the thickness of foamed polystyrene or wool is sufficient between 10-12 cm .

STYROPIAN - self-extinguishing polystyrene of the variety no smaller than FS 15 is used for insulation. In addition to being glued to the wall on a special glue for polystyrene, it should also be used to fasten insulating material to the wall - it ensures that it will not peel off wall. In buildings with a height of more than 8 m , or when the old floor is in poor condition, it is a necessary requirement. For fixing styrofoam to walls, expansion plugs with a plastic mandrel (4 pieces per 1 m2 ) are used. Styrofoam 10 cm thick is the most commonly used for insulation , boards should not be larger than 120 X 60 cm .

WOOL - for insulation there are used boards with a thickness of 8 to 12 cm , wool mats are not used. Wool should have a density of 80-150 kg / m3, for the baseboards it is worth using wool with a higher density, soaked with a preparation that reduces its absorbability. The wool, in addition to sticking to the wall with a special cement adhesive, is simultaneously fastened with pins with a steel rod in the amount of 8 pieces per 1 m2 .

Reinforcing mesh - its main task is to give adequate strength to the plaster and protect the thermal insulation layer from damage.The most commonly used are glass fiber mesh with a weight of 140-190 g / m2 - the strength of the net depends on its strength.The mesh should be evenly covered with a special cement glue, embedded in the adhesive layer, and then covered with a second layer.

Priming preparations - their main task is to improve the adhesion of the plaster to the layer with the mesh. They are covered with a layer of embedded mesh before the plaster is made.

PLASTERS - they are used for the stable finishing of the façade, the following types of plasters are distinguished:

Mineral plasters - sold in the form of dry cement-lime mixtures, have good vapor-permeability, appear in white and light-pastel colors.

Acrylic plasters (resin) - finished plastering plasters, in which the binder is polymers (acrylic resins), have a low vapor permeability, while they are less absorbable than mineral ones. They are characterized by a large variety of colors - they can be dyed practically in an unlimited palette. They are easier to maintain - they are less dirty, but they are more expensive than mineral plasters.

Silicate plasters - sold as ready-to-use mass, in their composition have potassium water glass and plasticizers, which facilitate the application, have good vapor permeability. The choice of plaster should be conditioned by the type of material used to make the thermal insulation layer. The following rules apply:

for insulation from expanded polystyrene (material with low vapor permeability), acrylic, mineral and silicate plasters are used,

for insulation from wool (material with high vapor permeability), mineral and silicate plasters are used.

If you want to put a thin-layer plaster well, remember that:

mineral plasters require an even foundation - the appropriate mineral putty is used,

substrates for thin-layer plasters must be primed,

when making thin-film trips, it is recommended to work without interruptions on one level,

the temperature of using thin-layer plasters should be observed, from + 5 ° C to + 30 ° C ,

it is necessary to use covers on scaffoldings (falling rain may blur the newly laid plaster, the sun may cause too fast drying).

Façade paints - if there is a need to change the color of the plaster, it can be painted with the appropriate facade paint in the desired color. However, remember to choose the type of paint for the type of plaster. Nearly all paints can be used for mineral plasters, preferably waterborne, with high vapor permeability. Acrylic paints are suitable for acrylic plasters, silicate paints for silicate plasters.

Thermal insulation



The temperatures for outdoor works usually range from +5 to + 25˚C, but unfortunately autumn and winter in our latitudes is a variable temperature that goes around 0˚C. Not everyone knows, but these temperatures do not only affect the air! Also built-in materials, substrate and mixing water! Temperatures> 5˚ provide very good conditions for binding hydraulic binder, i.e. cement.Of course, it is possible to carry out work at temperatures <5˚C, but working at temperatures between 0˚C and 5˚C will result in longer cement setting time and even a lack of cement. It will not destroy such a product, the technical properties of the material will probably be preserved. Unfortunately, aesthetics probably do not. Working at low temperatures with traditional materials, in addition to high humidity, increases the risk of salt efflorescence. Even included routes, special accessories etc. will not help here. Temperatures close to 0 ° may cause freezing water, which can lead to material damage.

The temperatures for outdoor works usually range from +5 to + 25˚C, but unfortunately autumn and winter in our latitudes is a variable temperature that goes around 0˚C. Not everyone knows, but these temperatures do not only affect the air! Also built-in materials, substrate and mixing water! Temperatures> 5˚ provide very good conditions for bonding hydraulic binder or cement. Of course, it is possible to carry out work at temperatures <5˚C, but working at temperatures between 0˚C and 5˚C will result in longer cement setting time and even a lack of cement. This will not destroy such a product, the technical properties of the material will probably be preserved, unfortunately the aesthetics probably will not. Working at low temperatures with traditional materials, in addition to high humidity, increases the risk of salt efflorescence. Even included routes, special accessories etc. will not help here. Temperatures close to 0 ° may cause freezing water, which can lead to material damage.

Dispersion products such as: paints, ready plaster mixes for proper bonding require a temperature of> 5 ° C, because these materials bind by evaporating water. Work at low temperatures and high humidity will cause the plaster, the paint does not dry out and with the first major rainfall will flow with it. Therefore, you should wait for favorable weather forecasts or use special heaters that will raise the temperature to the required temperature, but at the same time increase the costs of such a system.

Rescue of these problems can be special "winter" products, which enable work in temperatures from 0˚C to 5˚C and they are not terrible at night temperature drops below 0˚C. They allow you to calmly carry out works in the autumn and winter. A new autumn in the KREISEL offer, the TURBO Z-SA system is such a system. The TURBO Z-SA system is intended for thermo-modernization of existing buildings in both single-family and multi-family and industrial construction, as well as for thermal insulation of newly-constructed buildings. Due to specially developed recipes, it allows you to perform insulation work at reduced temperatures. The system includes: winter LEPSTYR Z 211 adhesive mortar, STYRLEP Z 221 winter adhesive-joining mortar, TYNKOLIT Z-SA winter plastering primer 341, SILIKATYNK Z 021 winter silicate plaster.

During work with this system, the outside temperature of the air, the substrate and the material to be incorporated must not be lower than 0 * C, this temperature must be maintained for at least 8 hours, after which time the temperature drop below zero is acceptable.

As a finishing layer, a special silicate plaster SILIKATYNK Z 021 was used. Thanks to the silification process, the plaster is chemically combined with a mineral substrate such as STYRLEP Z 221 mortar, which translates into an extremely durable inter-layer bonding. This is extremely important especially in performing work in difficult conditions. SILIKATYNK Z 021 is produced on the basis of potassium water glass. Silicate plaster combines the advantages of mineral (vapor-permeability) and acrylic plaster (high mechanical strength) while removing their defects (efflorescence on mineral plasters, fouling of acrylic plasters). The contained potassium glass causes the pH of the solution to increase to 11.3, thanks to which the expedition is highly resistant to algae, algae, fungi, etc., i.e. biological aggression, as well as to industrial pollution. These plasters have high vapor permeability and CO2 permeability, comparable to mineral plasters. The plaster is available in three 1.5mm grain thicknesses; 2.0mm and 3.0mm with textures of lamb and scratched.

But remember that in addition to high-quality materials, the basic implementation rules are important, that is: pay attention not to paint or plaster on damp ground (dew) which often cause the flow of paints and plasters and color differences, do not incorporate frozen materials, or on wet or frozen substrates. Finally, remember to read each instruction of use and check whether the product has no possible special recommendations.

The TURBO Z-SA thermal insulation system is compliant with PN-EN 13499: 2005 "Thermal insulation products in construction. Exterior composite thermal insulation systems (ETICS) with expanded polystyrene.

Insulation of walls



Everyone knows that it is worth living in a warm home. The investor joining the construction can choose the technology that meets that expectation. However, even with an old house, you can improve his comfort. Just carry out the so-calledThermomodernization, one of the elements of which is the insulation of external walls.

The base of the building is insulated with non-absorbent boards made of expanded polystyrene: 1 - polystyrene, 2 - plaster, 3 - plinth, 4 - polystyrene, 5 - concrete band, 6 - gravel, 7 - indigenous soil, 8 - external wall, 9 - ceiling , 10 - basement wall.

The base of the building is insulated with non-absorbent boards made of expanded polystyrene: 1 - polystyrene, 2 - plaster, 3 - plinth, 4 - polystyrene, 5 - concrete band, 6 - gravel, 7 - indigenous soil, 8 - external wall, 9 - ceiling , 10 - basement wall.

The essence of isolation

Thermal insulation consists in placing a layer of thermal insulation on them, mainly from mineral wool or polystyrene, and covering it with façade material. It is most often a thin-layer plaster. Thermal insulation of both materials is similar, however their properties are different. A feature of mineral wool, which must necessarily be noted, is that the moisture loses its insulating properties. On the other hand, it is a material that allows drainage of the water contained in the wall to the outside. For this reason, mineral wool can only be covered with mineral or silicone plaster with high vapor permeability. Only then will the insulation be prevented from moisture due to the condensation of water vapor or moisture in the wall. The opposite is with styrofoam, which does not absorb water. It is possible to use plasters impermeable to water vapor. Some manufacturers offer special types of expanded polystyrene, for example for insulating walls built of vapor barrier materials. This is important information for people who want to warm up an old house. Normal styrofoam does not let any air in at all, which can cause dampness of rooms with inoperative gravitational ventilation.

In places heavily loaded and exposed to moisture, XPS extruded polystyrene can be used. The boards are hardened and non-absorbable, and they are used primarily to isolate basement areas of buildings and cellar walls. They are produced in thicknesses from 2 to 10 cm . National building regulations allow the use of thermal insulation polystyrene boards to insulate exterior walls of buildings up to 25 meters above ground level. In multi-storey buildings higher than 25 meters and in wooden houses - due to the increased fire hazard, it is recommended to use mineral wool. When starting to insulate a house, first determine the thickness of the insulation layer. This should be done by the constructor for a particular building, and the heat transfer coefficient U can not be higher than the U-value allowed, which is 0.3 W / m2K. Currently, the method of wall insulation can also calculate the energy auditor. The thermal insulation process consists of three main stages: substrate preparation, insulation fixation and façade coating.

In old houses, lack of insulation often leads to irreparable damage.

In old houses, lack of insulation often leads to irreparable damage.

Is it worth to insulate the walls?

Definitely yes.

This is particularly important for old buildings with insulated or insulated walls. The freezing, non-insulated walls are exposed to destruction, while in the interiors may appear permanent moisture and consequently the fungus. In extreme cases, neglecting the insulation and thermo-modernization of a building can lead to its destruction. In the case of newly erected houses, the appropriate parameters of the heat transfer coefficient of walls are usually maintained. Single-layer walls erected with materials of appropriate parameters meet the requirements of currently applicable in Poland regulations in the field of thermal insulation of buildings. However, in an insulated house, thermal comfort is higher due to the high thermal resistance of the insulating material, several times the thermal resistance of a single-layer structural wall. Supporters of single-layer walls are often accused of the fact that the insulated walls do not pass the water vapor sufficiently and can not "breathe". This is not true, because you can easily choose products that have a vapor permeability that is even larger than walls made of ceramic bricks. Of course, the most important reason why buildings are warming is to reduce operating costs, in other words expenses for heating. Heating costs for a well-insulated building in winter are lower by up to several dozen percent compared to the heating costs of a non-thermal facility. However, do not insulate your home on your own. In the case of newly erected structures with laminar walls, the thermal insulation parameters are described in the architectural design. However, if we want to insulate an existing house, we should order a insulation project. Insulation thickness must be calculated based on the parameters of a particular building, with particular emphasis on heat demand, and the cost of works should be paid in a very short time. Otherwise, it will simply be unprofitable. The insulation systems available on the market meet standard requirements. When calculating system parameters, typical coefficients are used. The materials are selected so that the insulation of a standard house is effective and cost-effective, but most often it is possible to choose the thickness of the thermal insulation material offered. Although we are writing here only about thermal insulation of the building, it is worth mentioning that the thermo-modernization project should also take into account the modernization of the central heating installation, and it is certainly necessary for the developer to indicate solutions for the implementation of efficient ventilation. One of the effects of building insulation is the limitation of air exchange caused by the sealing of walls and wall connections with windows and doors. If traditional gravitational ventilation remains, it will not fulfill its task. Unfortunately, moisture and mold may appear in the interior quickly. If the insulation designer does not present such solutions, then you can use the detailed guidelines - usually they are drawings of details - which most often have insulation system manufacturers.

Any damage and greater unevenness of the plaster must be thoroughly filled with leveling mortar.

Any damage and greater unevenness of the plaster must be thoroughly filled with leveling mortar.

The most important in warming

We write a lot about building insulation technologies, we also touch this topic in our folders. Therefore, at this point, we want to pay attention to particularly important activities related to thermal insulation. Inaccurate performance or omission may have a significant impact on the durability of the work carried out. Before starting the insulation works it is necessary to dismantle all gutters and downpipes. They will interfere with your work and may be destroyed.

Subsoil

Before attempting to insulate the walls, an adhesion test of the old coat, both plastering and painting, should be made. You can check it by cutting it with a cross knife, sticking the adhesive tape and then breaking it. If a part of the coating breaks off, it should be considered poorly adhesive. Another way is to gently tapping uncertain places with a hammer. A hollow sound indicates a weak and loose ground. It is necessary to plaster or remove paint from weakened places. All cavities and places from which the plaster has been removed are filled with plaster mortar or leveling leveling mortar. Inequalities above 1 cm are also filled with leveling mortar or renovation and leveling mortar. Before proper thermal insulation work is carried out, the mortar must firmly bond. The day before the insulation starts, wash the surface of the walls with water under pressure to remove dust and dust. Absorbent substrates are usually primed with a preparation increasing adhesion of adhesive mortar.

The profile of the plinth must be perfectly leveled and carefully screwed to the wall.

The profile of the plinth must be perfectly leveled and carefully screwed to the wall.

Plinth strip

The first stage of insulation works, of course, after repairing the substrate is fixing a metal plinth profile on the wall to be insulated, on which the first row of insulating material will be based. After marking the wall on the surface, at a height of approx.40 cm above the ground level, a perfectly horizontal line, the profile is fixed with dowels.

Joints of insulation boards must be sanded evenly. The mineral wool is additionally fastened with dowels in the number of 6 pcs / m2 of the wall.

Joints of insulation boards must be sanded evenly. The mineral wool is additionally fastened with dowels in the number of 6 pcs / m2 of the wall.

Between the sections of the profiles, approximately 3-millimeter spacing is left to allow their dimensions to change as a result of heating from the sun.

Thermal isolation

The first row of insulation is based on the profile, while the boards in subsequent rows are glued with a 1/3 shift.

If, after gluing, the panel plane will not be even, it should be gently sanded with a special trowel or sandpaper applied to the plastering plaster, but not earlier than after 3 days from gluing the insulation.

Fragments of the net around the jambs must be slightly stretched so that folds do not form on it. Adhesive mortar must be so blurred that they do not remain lost, as they will be visible on the plaster.

Fragments of the net around the jambs must be slightly stretched so that folds do not form on it. Adhesive mortar must be so blurred that they do not remain lost, as they will be visible on the plaster.

Strengthening corners

The corners of the building and the window and door openings are particularly vulnerable to mechanical damage and wind.Strengthening the area of ​​window openings consists in gluing additional pieces of fiberglass reinforcing fabric to the wall already reinforced. Fragments about 20x35 cm are placed at a 45º angle near each corner.

Pieces of fabric are also stuck in the corners at the junction of the vertical jambs with the door lintel.

The reinforcing mesh can not be cut at the edge of a wall corner. It is necessary to roll it over to an adjacent wall at approx. 15 cm . Also, roll the net on the window and door jambs.

In areas where there are several layers of reinforcing mesh, the mortar must be tightened to prevent the thickening from remaining on the plaster later. However, it is not allowed to reveal the net. Also, it is not possible to stick fibers out of the mortar layer at any point.

Convex corners and edges at door openings are additionally reinforced with steel corner metal profiles. To their vertical edges, steel mesh strips are welded, which must be embedded in the mortar.

Steel profiles with mesh and right-angled putties with smooth edges are used for making corners.

Steel profiles with mesh and right-angled putties with smooth edges are used for making corners.

Corners must be particularly evenly spaced, because they are an eye-catching element of the building's body. Their inaccurate work will, unfortunately, be clearly visible. In order to facilitate the work, you can use a special steel spatula, bent at right angles.

It is also good to check the corner line by attaching a medium thickness at the top and bottom of the wall. Then all the plaster cavities in this place will be clearly visible. The corners are reinforced after the reinforcing layer made of glass fiber mesh on the entire insulated surface.

A drip should be placed on the lintel, whose task is to drain rainwater from the connection of the window or door with the jamb.

A drip should be placed on the lintel, whose task is to drain rainwater from the connection of the window or door with the jamb.

lintel

Improper or inaccurate treatment of window and door lintels may result in damage to the insulation and moisture of the walls.The water flowing down the façade over the facade lays on the lower face of the lintel, from where it can get into the gaps at the connection of the insulation with the window or door frame. This can be avoided by using the so-called drip. The easiest way is to put a ready profiled strip in this place, but you can also shape the projection in the lintel or cut the plaster in the shape of the letter "V". The diaphragm strip should stand out from the face of the wall approx. 4 cm .

Thanks to profiling the edge of the lintel, the rainwater flowing down the façade drips directly onto the window sill.

Plastering

Work on one wall should be carried out without breaks, so that the structure and color of the plaster are the same. The application of the plaster starts from the top of the wall and continues with horizontal stripes of the height resulting from the spacing of the scaffolding platforms. Most often they are about 2 m . In one-storey buildings, you can first plaster the window strip, then between the windows and finally under them. It is not allowed to plaster in the rain, strong wind or high insolation of the façade. If this can not be avoided, special shields must be used to reduce the impact of weather conditions. Currently, plaster with texture obtained due to the addition of aggregates of various grain sizes are fashionable. The plaster is rubbed on the thickness of the aggregate; the larger the invoice is. One of the most popular plasters, so-called the lamb is applied and pulled with a plastic trowel. Then it fades, remembering to move the trowel with the same movements, so that there are no differences in the texture of the plaster.

Kreisel advises

When making thermal insulation, mistakes are often made. The most visible effect is the uneven surface of the façade.

Good start. Correct mounting of the plinth profile determines the exact leveling of the insulation boards to be cleaned.

Correct installation. Insulation panels fixed by the band-point method are glued to the ground for min. 40% of their area (perimeter band with a width of a few centimeters and 2-6 patches with a hand diameter, their arrangement must correspond to a later arrangement of pins). The lack of peripheral band can cause the plates to be pressed - their surface will become uneven.The boards must be glued in a staggered way, and in the corners of the building they should interlock.

Final alignment. Any unevenness should be ground off, because it can not be "lost" in the reinforcing layer or during plastering (together they have only 4-6 mm ).

Each of the next stages of insulation works also has its implementing rules. It is also necessary to observe the minimum time between consecutive stages of works, because it affects the durability of a given thermal insulation system. Do not forget about the use of only one manufacturer's thermal insulation system. Using ingredients from different manufacturers most often causes later problems, which everyone wants to avoid.